With a title like this, one would expect a bad climbing article. In the lead? 4c? Usually this rating is synonymous with first experience of rock climbing rather than exploit. But in Laos, road 4c from Kasi to Pong-Dong is not equipped with spits or ropes. Rather asphalt, a lot of gravels and as climbers pick-up trucks, white minivans of tourists, overloaded trucks and… two bicycles!
23rd of August 2019, in good mood and playful by the incredible environment of the region, we decide to tackle the road bis. No, no, not Highway 13 supposed to allow the drivers most in a hurry to reach Louang Prabang without a hitch. The other, 4c. Yan and Brieke, our wonderful Dutch Warmshowers hosts from Vientiane, had advised us, for its wonderful pass, so let’s go!
We start smoothly, in the middle of green rice fields and crossing two or three peaceful villages. In the distance, the future Vientiane-Kunming highway (understand: the local pharaonic Chinese construction site) escapes into the heart of the mountain. Its tunnels are barely dug and workers are numerous on the edge of its roadway under construction. On our side, we begin to meander to the village of Ban Thong Muead. Curves are rare and our 15 kilos of luggage combined with a slope close to 10% require us to create laces. We laugh, we keep our spirits up and we climb like snails. The rain, at first just a fog, begins to fall massively. The day before, we had met a fellow Spanish cyclist who, clumsily, asked us: “And you? Are you
in holidays?” Hell no, cycling isn’t just a vacation 😉
It took us 4 hours to overcome the 20km and 1500m elevation. It’s so far from the stratospheric speeds of carbon bikes on alpine roads. But no matter the records, it’s a completely different accomplishment to reach the pass with our “shell”, so far from home and together!
We make a break for lunch : noodles and soda (for want of better) at the pass and start a magnificent descent, punctuated by some impromptu hills that end up consuming our thighs. The valley reopens, the sky too and we reach Namuang Gnai at 4pm, the brakes warm and head full of landscapes! The Guesthouse is simple but green and welcoming, tomorrow we still have 65km of falling bumps to arrive in Luang Prabang.
Tired but happy, I reread these lines of Paul Fournel (“Besoin de vélo”, Seuil, 2001): “There is an animal relationship on the bike to the world: the mountains that we see are to climb, the valleys are to be descended, the shadows are made to hide and to rest. To be in the landscape, in its heat, in its rain, in its wind, is to see it with other eyes, it is to permeate it in itself in an instinctive and profound way. The mountain that stands before me is not a mountain, it is first of all a hill to climb, an ordeal, a doubt, a worry, sometimes. At the top, it is a conquest, a lightness.”